Conscious Choice: Simply Salsify

January 2002 | Cooking with the Seasons

Simply Salsify

by Terra Brockman

Contrary to popular belief, salsify is not a verb meaning "to make salsa." It is a root vegetable popular in Russia, France, and Italy that resembles an uncivilized, rough-around-the-edges carrot. But why not ring in the New Year with something new (to most Americans) — salsify and its cousin, scorzonera. Both are tender and mild, a relief after the heavy meals and strong tastes of holiday fare.

These natives of central and southern Europe are members of the vast (20,000 species) Compositae family, which also contains the daisy and the sunflower. The main difference between the two roots is their skin color. Salsify has a whitish-tan skin and scorzonera has a black skin. Although the roots look rough and tough, the skin is actually very thin and the off-white flesh is a delicate delight. It is interesting to read food writers’ opinions of the flavor of salsify; some liken it to asparagus, while others say it has the delicate taste of oysters. I find neither of these flavors; instead I detect a hint of creamy coconut. But everyone has different taste perceptions, and I encourage you to give it a try and listen to your own taste buds.

Salsify

Although Thomas Jefferson’s favorite root vegetable was salsify and he planted his garden accordingly, the vegetable has faded into obscurity in the modern United States, perhaps because it doesn’t look bright and pretty on the shelf. Although it is fairly uncommon in supermarkets and restaurants, it has many attributes that make it a worthy plant to seek out at farmer’s markets or specialty food stores. The main attraction is its delicate taste and ease of preparation. It also has a high mineral content and is named a "Very Special Survival Vegetable" by John A. Freeman in his 1982 classic, Survival Gardening. One cup of cooked salsify has 92 calories and large amounts of potassium, calcium, vitamin C, and fiber.

Salsify can be roasted, baked, boiled, steamed, dipped in batter and deep-fried, or served au gratin. Preparations range from simple to extremely complex. Salsify fritters give an example of that range; here I give you a quick and simple American recipe and Paul Bocuse’s fancy French recipe.

Simple American Salsify Fritters

1 pound salsify
1 teaspoon lemon juice or vinegar
3 Tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup flour
1-2 Tablespoons butter for sautéing

1. Scrub the salsify and scrape the skin off with a knife. You can do this quickly and not worry about removing every last scrap of skin.

2. Chop the roots into two- or three-inch lengths, halving or quartering them if they are thick. Drop the pieces into a bowl of water with a few tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar. (The acid prevents the roots from turning brown in the air.)

3. Bring an inch of water to a boil in a saucepan. Place a steamer rack inside the pan and put the salsify on the rack. Cover and cook for about ten minutes, or until just tender. (The root gets mushy if you cook it too long.)

4. Mash the steamed salsify with a fork and stir in the butter, salt, and pepper. Shape in small flat cakes, roll in flour, and sauté in butter, browning first one side and then the other. Makes four to six servings.

Fancy French Salsify Fritters
Fritots ou Beignets de Salsifis, adapted from Paul Bocuse’s French Cooking, Pantheon Books, 1977.

1 pound salsify
Pinch of salt
Pinch of freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1/3 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Light Batter:
2-1/2 cups flour
2 eggs
3-1/2 Tablespoons melted butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 to 1 cup water
Vegetable oil for deep frying
Parsley sprigs for garnish

1. To make the batter, first lightly beat the eggs. Then add the butter and salt. Add the egg-butter mixture to the flour and mix. Then dilute with enough water to get a pancake-like batter. Prepare the batter one hour before it is to be used.

2. Wash, scrape, and put the salsify in cold water with a little vinegar or lemon juice. Cut in two-inch lengths.

3. Cook the salsify in boiling salted water or in a court-bouillion (one Tablespoon flour dissolved in one quart cold water, two tablespoons vinegar, and one teaspoon salt) until soft, then drain and dry.

4. Put the salsify in a bowl and toss with the salt, pepper, parsley, olive oil, and lemon juice. Let the salsify marinate for thirty minutes.

5. Heat at least one inch of vegetable oil in a deep skillet. A few minutes before serving, dip the salsify pieces into the batter and drop them, one at a time, into very hot oil. As soon as the fritters are golden-brown and crisp, drain on a paper towel, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and arrange on a plate. You can top the salsify fritters with deep fried parsley. Makes four to six servings.

Roasted Salsify
You can roast salsify alone or with a mixture of carrots, potatoes, onions, and other root vegetables.

1 pound salsify
1/4 cup canola oil
1/2 teaspoon dried sage or thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

1. Wash and scrape the salsify and cut into two- or three-inch lengths. Place the roots in a bowl of acidulated water as you work.

2. Dry the roots and then place in a heavy roasting pan. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with the herbs and seasonings. You may rub and roll the salsify around to coat them nicely with the oil, herbs, and seasonings.

3. Bake for fifteen to twenty minutes in a 375 degree F. oven. Makes six servings as a side vegetable.

Scorzonera

Belgium is famous for very few things — chocolate, of course, and also Magritte. It is furtively famous for being the world’s largest producer of scorzonera (also known as black salsify, black oyster plant, serpent root, and viper’s grass). If you find scorzonera in a supermarket, it was most likely grown in Belgium. But the first mention of scorzonera by a Western writer came from Leonhard Rudolf, who reported seeing scorzonera at the bustling market of Aleppo, Syria, in 1575. Shortly after that, the plant was cultivated in Italy and by 1660 it had started to appear in French kitchen gardens, and soon the Belgians were growing vast fields of it to fuel those French kitchens. The young leaves of scorzonera make a delicious salad green when sliced thin and dressed with vinaigrette.

The scorzonera root can be prepared in the same ways as salsify, but it is richer tasting and contains large amounts of vitamin E. Like salsify, scorzonera pairs well with milk or cream and can be baked or boiled and then dressed with a white sauce. For Thanksgiving, I made this simple scorzonera in cream — a delicate but satisfying dish.

Scorzonera in Cream

1-1/2 pounds scorzonera (or salsify)
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
2/3 cup heavy cream
2 Tablespoons minced onion
1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon and/or thyme
Salt to taste

1. Scrub the roots and scrape the skin off with a knife. Chop the roots into two- or three-inch lengths and drop them into a bowl of water with a tablespoon of lemon juice.

2. Bring an inch of water to a boil in a saucepan. Place a steamer rack inside the pan and put the salsify on the rack. Cover and cook for about ten minutes, or until just tender.

3. While the roots are steaming, combine the cream, onion, and herbs in a small heavy saucepan. Simmer gently until the onion is soft, about five minutes.

4. Add the steamed salsify to the cream. Add salt to taste. Simmer gently until most of the cream is absorbed by the roots, about two to three minutes. Makes six servings.

Scorzonera Vinaigrette

1/4 cup lemon juice
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
2 pounds scorzonera
Dressing:
1 egg yolk, at room temperature
1 teaspoon sharp mustard
1 Tablespoon finely minced scallion greens
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1-1/2 Tablespoons lemon juice
Salt to taste
3 Tablespoons olive oil
3 Tablespoons corn oil
Minced parsley to taste

1. Combine the lemon juice, water, and salt in a pan large enough to hold all the sliced scorzonera. Scrape the skin from the scorzonera and cut into three-inch lengths. If the root is large, you can then cut it into two or three slices lengthwise.

2. Drop the scorzonera into the saucepan. Bring to a boil. Cover and lower the heat, simmering until tender, about fifteen to twenty minutes.

3. While the roots are cooking, prepare the dressing. Combine yolk, mustard, scallion, pepper, lemon juice, and salt. Blend. Gradually whisk in the oils. Pour over the scorzonera. Serve at room temperature or chilled, with a minced parsley garnish. Makes six to eight servings.

Terra Brockman is the director of The Land Connection Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland and promoting small-scale, diversified, organic agriculture in Illinois. Visit www.thelandconnection.org or call 309-965-2407 to learn how to get involved.

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