Conscious Choice: Beautiful Beets

July 2001 | Cooking with the Seasons

Beautiful Beets

by Terra Brockman

"Beauty is truth, truth beauty,"— that is all ye know on earth, and all ye need to know.

— John Keats, "Ode on a Grecian Urn"

Keats was onto more than he knew when he equated truth and beauty. He was elucidating his romantic notions of the perfection and timelessness of art, but he could have expanded his horizons to earthly things — especially fruits and vegetables and especially now as we enter the rainbow season.

Starting in July, gardens and farmers’ markets light up with produce of every hue. The deeply colored fruits and vegetables are beautiful and delicious — but that’s not all. The pigments in plants play important roles in plant chemistry, and also provide visual clues to the insects that pollinate them. The same visual clues lead humans, visually and viscerally, to what’s good for them.

The packets of pigment that delight our eyes with dark greens, brilliant oranges and yellows, and deep reds and purples, also delight the other cells of our body with carotenoids and anthocyanidins — powerful antioxidants that protect against cancer and other chronic diseases. Carotenoids produce the red and yellow-orange hues in pumpkins, winter squash, carrots, and tomatoes. They are also found in broccoli and dark-green leafy vegetables, though their color is masked by the green of chlorophyll, another antioxidant. The anthocyanidins are molecules of red, blue, and purple pigments found in strawberries, cherries, cranberries, blueberries, grapes, red cabbage, and, of course, beets. The bright red of the beet attracts us, and the truth behind the beauty is the truth of life-enhancing phytochemicals.

In addition to being cancer-preventing antioxidants, the anthocyanidins found in beets are anti-inflammatory; they support connective tissue regeneration, promote blood flow, and reduce cholesterol. Scientists and physicians have gathered much evidence to support the idea that by ingesting antioxidants people can reduce their cancer risk and increase their overall wellness.

Beets fresh from the garden actually pack an antioxidant triple whammy, as you get the anthocyanidins in the root and the carotenoids and chlorophyll in the leaves. Use the beet tops soon after you buy the beets, as the roots keep well for a much longer time. Both the stems and leaves of the beet top are excellent when lightly boiled in salted water. The red stems strewn among the lush green leaves are delightful to look at and the contrast between the crunchiness of the former and the tenderness of the latter is pleasing to the palate. The roots can be steamed, boiled, baked, roasted, or parboiled then grilled.

Simple Beet Top Salad

Tops from 4-6 beets (about one pound)
1 teaspoon salt
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste

1. Pull the leaves from the stems and snap the stems into two or three pieces. Wash both the stems and the leaves in cold water.

2. Bring three to four quarts of salted water to a boil, and put in the beet stems. After four to five minutes, put in the leaves. Cook for another four to five minutes. Drain.

3. When the greens have cooled, toss with olive oil, and a dash of lemon juice. Serve immediately.

Beets with Guinness and Sautéed Greens

5 pounds beets, including the greens
3 Tablespoons Guinness stout
1 Tablespoon red-wine vinegar
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Cut the tops off the beets, leaving two inches of the stem attached to the beets. Chop the stems and greens coarsely.

2. In a large pan, cover the beets with two inches of cold water, bring to a boil, and simmer, covered, for twenty to thirty-five minutes (depending on their size), or until tender. Drain the beets and under cold running water, slip off and discard their skins. Cut the beets into quarters.

3. In a skillet, bring to a boil the stout and the vinegar and whisk in two Tablespoons of the butter. Stir in the beets, and add the salt and pepper.

4. In a large skillet, heat the remaining two Tablespoons butter over moderately high heat until the foam subsides. Sauté the reserved beet greens, stirring, for five to eight minutes, or until they are tender, and stir in the salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the greens around the edge of a platter and mound the beets in the center. Serve.

Baked Beets

Baking is the best way to concentrate the intense beet flavor. It takes time, but it doesn’t take watching, so try baking rather than boiling in some of your favorite beet recipes.

1 bunch beets (4-6 beets, about 1-1/2 pounds) with their tops
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Cut off the tops of the beets and reserve. Trim the root ends of the bulbs.

2. Wash the beets, then wrap them all together in aluminum foil or parchment paper, crimping the edges to seal tightly. Put them in the upper part of the oven. They are done when they feel tender but firm when prodded with a fork. This will take one-and a-half to two hours, depending on their size. When cool enough to handle, pull off the beet skins and cut them into thin slices.

3. When ready to serve, toss with salt, olive oil, and vinegar.

Monsieur de Combles’s
18th Century Roasted Beet Salad

De Combles, author of L’Ecole du Jardin Potager (1750), insists that roasting beets in hot ashes is the best method "because the ashes impart the salts that enliven the taste." You may want to try his roasting method in your Fourth of July campfire, or use the baking method above. De Combles did not give measurements, so here is my version of his salad. If you don’t like the peppery bite of nasturtiums, the salad is fine without them.

1 pound baked or roasted beets
3 Tablespoons olive oil
2 small anchovies
2 medium onions, diced
1/4 cup capers
4-5 cornichons, diced
1/4 cup finely sliced nasturtium greens, and a few flowers for garnish

1. Bake the beets as described above and slice into a large serving bowl.

2. In a skillet, heat the olive oil and add the anchovies, mashing them with a fork until they "dissolve." Add the onions and sauté over medium heat until the onions are tender and slightly browned.

3. Add the cooked onions, capers, cornichons, and nasturtium greens to the beets. Toss well, adding more olive oil if you like. Garnish with nasturtium flowers.

Mom’s 20th Century Beet Salad

This is the simple, delicious beet salad my mother made during most of the last half of the 20th century. Sometimes she spikes it with sliced onion and/or raisins. But for maximum beautiful beet flavor, try the plain version.

6 medium beets (1 to 1-1/2 pounds)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3-4 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Roast or boil the beets until they can easily be pierced with a fork. When cool enough to handle, loosen the skin at the stem end and peel it off.

2. Cut the beets into slices and place them in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper, then pour in the olive oil and toss to mix. Let the salad sit at room temperature for at least twenty minutes before serving so the seasonings can blend. This keeps well for a week in the refrigerator. Let it come to room temperature before serving again.

Lisa’s Garnet Salad

Lisa Comforty, a contributor to Food & Farm Notes, says: "Nothing beats beets for color. Fruits sometimes rise to the occasion. But what other vegetable matches the lowly beet for brilliance? None. Add a spike or two of lemon, a few other ingredients, and chill. Both look and taste will sparkle. Follow the recipe below to adorn any table with the garnets of the vegetable world."

5-6 small beets
Juice of one lemon
1 Tablespoon vinegar (optional but very good; it adds zing)
2-3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 Tablespoons chopped cilantro for garnish (optional but very alluring)

1. Bake or boil beets in their jackets until tender (about fifty minutes.) Set aside to cool.

2. Meanwhile, make the dressing by whisking together the lemon juice, vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper.

3. Dice the beets and toss with the dressing. Garnish the garnets with cilantro, if desired.

Persian Beets

This combination of beets, yogurt, cream, and fresh mint is irresistible!

1-1/2 pounds small beets
2 shallots or small onions, minced
1 cup plain yogurt
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 Tablespoon strong chicken or vegetable stock
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped

1. Place the beets in a saucepan; cover with cold unsalted water. Heat slowly to boiling and reduce the heat. Simmer until barely tender, then drain under cold water. Remove the skins.

2. Leave beets whole if they are small, or cut into wedges if they are larger. Pat dry and place in a serving dish. Sprinkle with the shallots or onions.

3. Beat the yogurt and cream in a small bowl. Beat in the stock until smooth, adding salt to taste. Spoon the sauce over the beets and decorate with mint leaves.

Terra Brockman is the director of The Land Connection Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland and promoting small-scale, diversified, organic agriculture in Illinois. Visit www.thelandconnection.org or call 309-965-2407 to learn how to get involved.

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