Conscious Choice: Rhapsody in Red

August 2000 | Cooking with the Seasons

Rhapsody in Red

by Terra Brockman

Attack of the Killer Tomatoes may have been the worst B movie of all time, but there is a shred of truth in the concept. Tomatoes are members of the extremely large and diverse Solanaceae family, all of which have a feminine beauty — voluptuous flowers and large, soft, fuzzy leaves. It seems that even the plant kingdom has its madonna/whore dichotomy. In the madonna category are the nutritious, nurturing Solanaceae such as eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, and potatoes. On the dark side, are the killer Solanaceae, most famously, deadly nightshade or Atropa belladonna.

The species name belladonna (beautiful woman) was bestowed on the plant because its juice dilates the pupils and was used by Italian women to give their eyes greater brilliance. The generic name Atropa is from the Greek Atropos, one of the three daughters of Nyx (Night), who were known as the Fates. The Fates controlled human destiny: Kloto spun the thread of life, Lachesis measured it out, and Atropos stood by with her shears, ready to cut it. Nightshade was known in ancient times as a medicine and as a poison, the only difference being in the dosage. It contains the psychoactive alkaloids atropine, scopolamine, and hyoscyamine, which inhibit the actions of acetylcholine in the parasympathetic nervous system, and which, in sufficient doses, can kill.

Edible Wolf-Peach

Because of its resemblance to the deadly nightshades, the tomato, Lycopersicon esculentum (Lyco-persicon = "wolf-peach" and esculentum = "edible"), was thought to be poisonous for many centuries. The tomato originated in the mountainous regions of the Andes and was first domesticated in Mexico. The name comes from the Aztec word tomatl (which actually refers to the tomatillo). European explorers brought the tomato back from the Americas and it spread throughout Europe and Asia during the sixteenth century.

Since then, thousands of varieties of tomatoes have come and gone — as a result of the natural variations that occur with open-pollinated plants, and as the result of hybridization techniques that advanced rapidly after World War II. After the war, due to improved transportation and the advent of agribusiness, seed companies and growers wanted tomatoes that could withstand mechanical harvesting, lengthy shipping processes, and even longer shelf-life. They also wanted tomatoes of a uniform size, shape, and color. Flavor was not even on the list of desired qualities, and over time was largely lost. What we ended up with were tough-skinned varieties that tasted much like the cardboard boxes they were shipped in.

The Heirloom Renaissance

The earlier, tasty, nonhybrid tomatoes — those that came to the U.S. with immigrants — had nearly disappeared by the 1970s, when the heirloom renaissance began. Excellent taste and genetic diversity have become cornerstones of the heirloom seed movement. "Heirloom" refers to any of the old, open-pollinated varieties. Open pollination — by insects, wind, or rain — creates slight genetic variations, which result in plants with fruit of varying shapes, colors, and sizes, and with varying resistance to pests, drought, and other threats. Such diversity ensures the survival of a species.

When a plant virus comes along and wipes out an entire crop planted in monoculture, it’s the genetic diversity available in heirloom seeds and the small farmers who grow them that represent the best chance of survival. Heirlooms are much more than a quaint hobby; they are the future of a sane, sustainable, diverse agriculture.

Farmers’ markets enter the picture any time heirloom varieties are discussed because these markets are the only outlet for fragile varieties that don’t hold up in transit or, just as problematic to mainstream stores, don’t look like what most people think tomatoes are supposed to look like.

An heirloom tomato will certainly never win a supermarket beauty pageant. When compared to evenly round, evenly red hybrid tomatoes, these old-fashioned types look like they came from another planet. Heirlooms can be fluted, scalloped, flattened, lobed, "cat-faced" with scarring, or shaped like hearts or strawberries. When ripe they might be white, pink, red, orange, yellow, gold, purple, chocolate-brown, blackish-red, green, or striped. And the flavors range from sweet to tart, mild to strong, perfumed and fruity to dark and smoky.

Here are brief descriptions of some of the heirlooms you may find in local farmers’ markets. They will add visual interest and unbelievable flavor to anything you make. As with all very fresh produce, the less you mess with them, the better. In the case of tomatoes, the number one rule to keep in mind is that if you want the full taste, don’t refrigerate them.

A Tantalizing Treasure Trove of Time-Tested Tomatoes

Brandywine (pink, red, or yellow): This is the most famous of all American heirloom tomatoes. It was introduced by the Philadelphia seed firm of Johnson & Stokes in 1889. The pink Brandywine has a very thin skin, which disqualifies it as a good shipping tomato. For this reason, it is not often seen in markets far from where it is grown. It is consistently ranked as one of the top three in tomato taste tests. Rich and succulent with complex flavors reminiscent of Burgundy wines, the Brandywine has the sort of sweet/tart tomato flavor you may not have tasted for decades.

Pruden’s Purple: This is similar in size, shape, and taste to the Brandywine, but ripens earlier in the season. It is not a true purple color, but dark pink. It has a rich, some say "custardy," taste and is excellent in simple tomato sandwiches or panzanella.

German Johnson: An old-time favorite from North Carolina and Virginia. Large, nicely shaped pink-red tomatoes that average about a pound each. Meaty with few seeds, they are excellent for salads and fresh pasta sauces.

Black Krim: These chocolate-colored medium-sized tomatoes hail from the Black Sea island of Krim. The deep color ranges from brown-red to purple-black and often throws the uninitiated for a loop. If you sample one however, you may never go back to red tomatoes again. They are richly flavored with a hint of saltiness. They are prone to cracking — meaning they are full to bursting with flavorful juices and must be used right away.

Aunt Ruby’s German Green: This large (12-16 ounce) beefsteak-style tomato ripens to a pale green with a hint of yellow and a pink blush underneath. The flavor is sweet and a little spicy. Great mixed into salads and sauces. This tomato originated about fifty years ago in the garden of Ruby Arnold of Greenville, Tennessee. One of its parents or grandparents was a white tomato, which gives this variety its unusual sweetness. It is very fruity and aromatic.

Green Zebra: These small (3-4 ounce) green striped beauties ripen to an amber green with darker green stripes. The light green flesh is sweet, with an almost citrus-like zing. It is a taste treat increasingly found on the menus of gourmet restaurants.

Action Alert!

We often think we have no power when it comes to the quality of our food. But we do. We can cast our votes in the only way companies understand — with our $$$$$$. As long as we buy the tasteless produce in the grocery store, we keep the chain going: Grocers will stock it for consumers; shippers will ship it to grocers; packers will pack it for shippers; growers will grow it for packers; and breeders will breed it for growers. You can stop this chain of events by simply saying "No" to store tomatoes and "Yes" to locally grown vine-ripened tomatoes. Once you say yes, here’s what to do with your lovely tomatoes.

Tomato-Sunflower Seed Sandwiches

This is one of those recipes whose sum is far greater than its parts. Don’t let the simplicity (or the mayonnaise) turn you off. It is an amazing treat that must be tasted to be appreciated.

One large heirloom tomato (my favorites for this sandwich are Prudens Purple and Black Krim)
Bread (try a seven-grain or country sourdough) cut into thick slices
1 Tablespoon mayonnaise
2 Tablespoons salted, roasted sunflower seeds

1. Cut your fresh, vine-ripened tomato into thick slices.

2. Slather your bread slices with high-quality mayonnaise (or make your own) Use about one heaping tablespoonful per sandwich.

3. Place the tomato slice on the bread. Sprinkle with the sunflower seeds. Press the other slice of bread on top.

Panzanella (Tuscan Tomato Bread Salad)

This specialty of central Italy is made only at the peak of the tomato season. Stale Tuscan bread (or any hard bread that will not disintegrate when moist), is crucial. Ciabatta or other flavorful, crusty French or Italian breads do nicely.

2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cut into large cubes (try a mix of varieties and colors)
1 cup thinly sliced red onions
1 cup slivered fresh basil leaves
2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1-2 Tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and coarsely ground black pepper to taste
3 cups stale bread, cut into one-inch cubes

1. Combine the tomatoes, onions, basil, olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper in a large bowl.

2. Add the bread and toss well. Let sit at least fifteen minutes for the bread to absorb the juices and flavors. Serve at room temperature.

Terra Brockman is the director of The Land Connection Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland and promoting small-scale, diversified, organic agriculture in Illinois. Visit www.thelandconnection.org or call 309-965-2407 to learn how to get involved.

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